We are searching data for your request:
Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.
Rose bonsai cultivation
Rose bonsai cultivation has long been practiced in Japan, but is also rapidly spreading to Europe. It is a plant species rather suited to the bonsai techniques, due to the small size of the leaves, delicate branches and the beauty of the flowers. In this sense, it would be preferable to resort to varieties with flowers and leaves that have a limited development, with particular reference to the wild rose. This variety, in particular, gives life to a wonderful pink or white flower, and therefore to a decidedly fascinating orange fruit. Good results, however, can be obtained with most wild species, which among other things have the advantage of flowering with a certain ease. As for the location, the ideal exposure provides a fairly ventilated and fairly sunny position, paying attention, during the very hot summer days, to providing adequate shelter (just as in winter the bonsai must be protected from frost). The plant needs a large number of proteins to be able to give birth to the fruits and allow them to reach maturity: it is from photosynthesis that the sugars useful for the synthesis of such proteins come from, photosynthesis that occurs in the leaves. This is the reason why the pink bonsai it must be in full sun during periods of flowering and fruiting.
The rose generally consumes large amounts of water, especially when the flowers begin to appear: for this reason, the watering must be frequent, to avoid that the withering flowers quickly (something not unlikely) compromise the production of fruits. The water jet must be directed exclusively on the substrate: if directed towards the flowers or the leaves, in fact, there is the risk of serious damage. In the summer months, when the temperature rises very much, it is preferable to resort to a saucer filled with water.The bonsai rose needs a soil composed of equal parts of soil and akadama. Repotting must be carried out between March and April, in spring, before the vegetative awakening begins. In reality, one can also proceed in the central weeks of May, that is when the newly born shoots seem to have consolidated. The youngest specimens should be transplanted once a year, while the more adult ones are biennial, since the rose is characterized by very vigorous roots which then, as they develop, fill the space of the vase in a short time. As far as pruning is concerned, this bonsai requires a slight thinning of the shoots before the resumption of vegetation, during the rest period. It is sufficient to prune the branches above a bud that develops in the desired direction, leaving however two or three buds for each branch. The new shoots must be left at most to ten centimeters in length, but clearly for the younger plants a more consistent pruning is indispensable. Larger branches must be shortened in the spring months. Once cut, they must receive cicatrizant paste on the cuts, essential to prevent the surface from drying out without forming the scar. If the pruning is done in autumn, the branches should be left a little longer. It should also be remembered that the pink bonsai has the tendency to lose the branches located in inland areas with a certain ease: for this reason, it is necessary to intervene at the apexes of strong branches in a timely manner.Pruning, wrapping and stapling: for balanced and harmonious growth
Not only pruning, however, in the sense that the bonsai needs further treatments to grow in health, in a harmonious and balanced way. Just think of stapling, which is essential if you intend to thicken the vegetation. This procedure allows to reduce the amount of flowers, so as to direct the vigor and development of the plant in the direction of the thickening of the branches and the formation of the new ones. At the end of the new shoots flower buds are formed, which however can also appear on the small branches that unravel from the larger branches. The winding is also very important, which allows the branches to be bent which tend to grow too straight. It is a procedure, however, that is effective only on branches not older than two years: in fact, over time they become less elastic and sensitive, and therefore more difficult to correct. As far as the trunk is concerned, however, it can be shaped with copper wire up to the third year, as long as it is cultivated from cuttings. It is impossible, on the other hand, to obtain satisfactory results after the fifth year.
Bonsai roses: Diseases and parasites
Finally, it should be remembered that pink bonsai is quite sensitive to pest attacks and diseases: among its most frequent enemies there are aphids, powdery mildew, red spider mite, mold, bacteria and tendrilini. For this reason, in spring it is advisable to use specific anti-parasitic products, in addition to always paying attention to the formation of water stagnation.